Where oh where to begin. What a fabulous weekend. I have wanted to go to Portugal since I lived in Spain almost 3 years ago. I kicked myself daily for not making it over when I lived so close, so I promised myself that I would make it there this go-round. Luckily for me, Amanda had the same idea, and since it was her birthday, we decided this would be the perfect celebration! It also didn't hurt that we found a pretty good deal on flights, and a great/cheap hostel to boot, so off we went! Because it was a long weekend here in Paris, we got to spend 3 full days in this beautiful city! Our flight left Thursday night fairly late, so when we arrived at the hostel at 1am, we went straight to bed to prepare ourselves for all the sightseeing in the days to follow.
Friday morning we were up bright and early to take advantage of the beautiful sunshine! Our hostel offered a free breakfast, so we emerged onto the rooftop terrace to take in the views and enjoy our coffee, bread, and cereal. Even at 9am, the weather was perfect, the sun was shining, and we knew it was going to be a great day! So we glanced at a map to see the general direction we wanted to head, and we were off. For those of you who don't know, Porto is a hillside city that encompasses the Douro River. While these hills don't look like much, walking up and down and up and down them is quite the workout! Our first trek of the day was to the highest point in the city, where 2 grand cathedrals rested and overlooked the entire city and out to the ocean. From there we decided to cross the river on one of the many beautiful bridges that Porto is so well-known for. We were now on what we refer to as the "cellar side" because it is the location of most of the famous port wine cellars in the city. Literally, from our hostel looking across the river, all you say are giant letters on the roofs of buildings, advertising which cellar it is. We wandered along the water a bit before making our way into the first cellar of the day to do a bit of tasting...at 11am! This cellar was called Taylor's and is pretty much famous because they offer FREE tastings...right up our alley! I have never really tried port wine before, but I knew it was quite sweet. Let's just say "quite sweet" was an understatement at this place. Holy moly it tasted like grape candy, no bueno. From here we moved on to the second cellar of the day, called Sandeman's. Most of you are probably familiar with this brand, as they are quite famous for their Portuguese Port, Spanish Wine, and Scottish Whiskey. Here, for a mere 4euros, we got to take a tour of the wine cellar and see all the barrels and vats where they make the wine, as well as a movie that took us out to the grape orchards. After the tour we got to taste a couple more ports, this time a white aperitif port, which was actually quite tasty! I actually bought a bottle of this for Val because her birthday was the day we returned. Because it was not quite noon yet and we had acquired a slight buzz from all the tastings, we decided to hop on a little boat to relax while we got a tour of all the bridges of port, all the way to the ocean. It was beautiful seeing all the picturesque landscapes, buildings, and bridges, all while relaxing in the (now deathly hot) sun. Amanda and I definitely got a bit crispy on the boat, and I am STILL trying to get rid of my shorts tan-line! It wasn't until after we finished our hour long tour that we realized we were toast, literally, so we retreated to the riviera to enjoy a drink in the shade. Here is where I discovered my favorite beverage to date, a tango. It is a light beer with a little bit of current syrup mixed in...tres. bon. It was such a nice, refreshing treat in such intense heat. We had a little snack with our beers to keep the energy up so we could continue on with the sightseeing. We continued on to see a couple more churches and conquer a couple more hills before we were ready to just shower and crash. On our way back, we stopped at a store to grab a couple things to make dinner at the hostel. Never has a shower felt so good, let me tell you! We got ready for the evening, planning to go out, made our dinner and ate it on the balcony, and then struck up conversation with 2 fellow travelers at the hostel. One was an Australian living in Sweden, the other was his girlfriend, a Swede living in Sweden, what do you know! They were in Portugal doing 4 weeks of traveling up the coast by means of hitchhiking and couch surfing! Sark, you would have loved talking to them! They've hitchhiked all over Europe, including most recently, Turkey (scary! but they said it was great)! They were so interesting to talk to and share stories with, that next thing we knew it was already 1am, so much for going out! We called it a night so we could be well-rested for our long-awaited beach day the next day!
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| View from our rooftop terrace |
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| Cathedral at the top of the hill. We thought this was beautiful when we saw it, little did we know that every other cathedral in town is 100x more beautiful, as you will see below... |
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| Self portrait, trying to get the view in behind us...fail. |
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| Douro River and magnificent bridges |
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| On the cellar tour at Sandeman's |
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| Tasting at Taylor's |
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| On the boat tour! |
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| Beautiful river front scenes |
Saturday was honestly the perfect day. We had a little breakfast, a lotta coffee, bought giant beach towels for 4euros, hopped on a bus for 1.50euros, and within 15 mins were in sight of some of the most beautiful beaches. We found a nice spot and just crashed for what turned into a 4 hour nap on the beach :) No burns either! We remembered sunscreen, and set our alarms to rotate every hour like rotisserie chickens! After testing out the water (cold!), we popped into a little cafe to enjoy a salad and a tango on the deck. We made our way back to the hostel in the late afternoon to shower and get ready for the night, because again, we were determined to make it out one night to celebrate Amanda's birthday!! We asked the owner of the hostel (Pedro, soo nice!) for a restaurant suggestion, and he directed us to Arroz al Forno, just up the street. Even better, because we told them we were from the hostel, we each got a free glass of wine! Now, everywhere we went we saw on the menu about 8 different codfish dishes. Clearly, this was their specialty, so we knew we couldn't leave without trying it. We each ordered the "half" baked codfish...oh. my. goodness. They brought out a huge dish with a giant slab of crusted fish and a few potatoes. We were overwhelmed at first sight, thinking how on earth we were going to finish that. Then, to our surprise, and dismay, they brought out ANOTHER! Each dish was the "half order" that we wanted. So much food!!! Now I can't really complain because it was so damn good that I probably could have finished the whole thing by myself. It was the most flavorful, juiciest, perfectly seasoned piece of fish I have ever eaten, and I would fly back right now just to eat it again. Remember this, all you people, when you go to Portugal, order the baked cod! After gorging ourselves on fish, it was time to walk it off before the partying could begin, so we wandered through a different area of town, up to city hall, through an outdoor book fair, past many different cathedrals, until we happened upon a random stage in the middle of the street. Not just a platform, a full on stage with speakers, special lighting, and beer vendors all around. We grabbed a beer (for 1euro!) and stood at a table talking, until we were suddenly surrounded by people and a band was making their way on stage. We have no idea who the band was, they spoke Portuguese, but sang in English, and they had many followers. They were quite good! We ended up listening for a while and chatting and decided that this turned into the perfect night, so we contentedly walked home to call it a night.
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| BEACH! |
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| gettin my tan on! |
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| TANGO! |
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| Delicious. massive. codfish. |
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| Another church, 1 step up from the last, as it has a bit of famous Portuguese tile detailing. |
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| Watching the band play in the street! |
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| The "no-names" |
Now, we had heard about this really awesome outdoor market, selling everything from groceries to clothes and art. Pedro told us it was hoppin' in the mornings, so Sunday we decided to make this our first stop. We walked down the main shopping street to get there (luckily it was Sunday so everything was closed and my wallet was safe). Unfortunately, because it was Sunday, the market was also closed. Bummer. Instead, we decided to head to the big cathedral to hike up to the bell tower, which we heard had amazing views. We got there just before it closed, ascended the 208 stairs, only to be met with a view that was expansive, but quite unimpressive. So, we opted to find some lunch instead. Damn, Sunday, nothing open! However, luck was on our side as we wandered into a random awesome-looking building by our hostel and they just happened to have a really nice, cheap cafe, that was open! We had another tango, some bruschetta, and some stuffed mushrooms and were quite content. And, because it was only about 2pm, we decided it was time to head back to the beach! We went to a new beach this time that was a little smaller and had more rocks than sand, but it was so peaceful and beautiful! We laid out for a few hours, but it became a bit windy and it looked as though a storm was coming in, so we retreated to a fancy restaurant for dinner. This restaurant was 2 stories, every table had a gorgeous ocean view, right on the beach, it was clean and beautiful on the inside, and guess what it was? DOMINOES! How weird is that? Either way, we decided to go for it, as I don't think I have ever even eaten dominoes in the States before, let alone on a beach in Portugal. That night we packed up our things to prepare for our early departure the next day, and after a total of 6 hours of travel time, we were safely back home, sporting amazing tans and renewed spirits.
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| And now we get to the good stuff...beautiful churches!! |
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| Small, but completely covered in Portuguese tiles! |
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| City Hall...we were here on voting day, and as you all know, Portugal was just bailed out by the EU, so this was a big big day for them! |
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| At the top of the clocktower |
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| View of the river from the clocktower |
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| Wandering the narrow streets |
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| Beach #2 |
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| Bellissimo. |
It was a wonderful weekend away from the hustle and bustle of city life. We saw and did a lot, but had plenty of time to relax as well, the perfect combination! So to anyone interested in new travel destinations, I definitely recommend Porto, and just Portugal in general!!